Rice House/Barnsley GardensGeorgia MountainsJanuary 2009Resort fare sometimes seems intended for captive audiences rather than discerning diners. However, the ambitious menu at Barnsley Garden's Rice House includes a well-executed trio of soups (butternut squash deepened with “spice dust”; celery-root soup with tiny bits of shrimp, bacon and truffle; cold watercress topped with a perfect bite of crisply fried goat cheese) and seasonal entrees such as seared diver scallops and monkfish in “avgolemono” sauce – a pool of eggy, lemony goodness based on the Greek soup – dotted with tender English peas and fava beans, over salmon potato hash. The grilled bison is a lean champ with a knockout punch, with a “pave” of sliced turnip and carrots, its side of subtle pureed parsnips sharpening the bison’s meaty wallop. Barnsley could use a few improvements – a better wine list; more knowledgeable servers; better signage and lighting in the occasionally eerie “village” of lookalike guest houses. But we applaud the thoughtful direction here. Barnsley Gardens, 597 Barnsley Gardens Road, Adairsville. 770.773.7480 or 877.773.2447 Full review on Georgia Trend website |
